Year in Review: 2012

What an amazing year 2012 has been! I've met some incredible people, seen some awe inspiring places and learned more than I ever could've imagined. I feel blessed to have had the amazing opportunities I've had this year: from the Tetons, to Zion, to Canada and everywhere in between. So many of you inspire me to be better, to keep creating and to keep exploring, and for that I am so grateful. Thank you. Here's a video to wrap up 2012 and bring in the new year. Enjoy.

And in case you missed some of the highlights of the year on the blog, check the links below:

Grand Teton National Park
Park City and Salt Lake
Zion National Park
Monument Valley
Salt Flats
Canyonlands National Park
Caineville, Utah
Goblin Valley
Humboldt Redwoods
Yosemite National Park
Cecret Lake
Mount Timpanogos
Bonneville Speed Week
Canada: Banff, Jasper and Glacier

Location: Canyonlands NP

Pothole Point Overlook. Needles District, Canyonlands.  

Singh-Ray 3-stop reverse ND, 2-stop soft step graduated ND, Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 70-200mm, Gitzo Tripod, BH-3 Ballhead.

False Kiva. Island in the Sky District, Canyonlands.

Singh-Ray 3-stop reverse ND, 2-stop soft step graduated ND, Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm, Gitzo Tripod, BH-3 Ballhead.

Pothole Point Overlook.  Needles District, Canyonlands.  

Singh-Ray 3-stop reverse, Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 70-200mm, Gitzo Tripod, BH-3 Ballhead.

 Newspaper Rock. On the way to the Needles District, Canyonlands.

Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm.

I've been hitting up several National Parks in and around Utah this past year and have come to fall in love with Canyonlands National Park. Just west of the well known Arches National Park, on the other side of Moab, lies the beautiful Canyonlands National Park. The north entrance, just north of the entrance for Arches, takes you to the Island in the Sky District. At the edges of "Island in the Sky" you realize why it has its name; steep cliffs drop off into the canyon floor hundreds of feet below which continue miles beyond human sight. The Green and Colorado Rivers have formed much of the land, carving deeper canyons below. With the limited time I've had in the Island in the Sky District, and Canyonlands in general, I've only been able to hit some of the shorter hikes and closer lookouts. For a one or two day trip to Canyonlands, I would suggest staying in the Island in the Sky District and hitting the sites there.  These are some of my favorites:

• Mesa Arch is one of the most famous arches in the area and is best seen at sunrise. There will be 20-30 other people there, especially in the spring and summer months, so get there early if you want to set your tripod somewhere decent. Or you can always hope for an overly friendly European who will wave you over to set your tripod leg to leg with his, in the midst of a sea of Japanese tourists, to get the exact shot you were hoping for. But I wouldn't count on it. Get there early if you don't want to be fighting for your view of Mesa Arch. 

• False Kiva is one of the best kept secrets in the park. The trail is unmarked and followed only by the occasional cairn, but if you ask a ranger at the visitor center, they'll tell you exactly where to go. It is a very secluded hike. Chances are, you won't see another person the entire way. Keep that in mind, and be prepared, if you plan on going alone.  

• Any of the overlooks are amazing; I would suggest hitting as many as you can and choosing Green River Overlook or Grand View Point Overlook for sunset.  

For the majority of my most recent trip, I spent my time in, or getting to, the Needles District. None of the four districts in Canyonlands connect, and you have to drive out the same way you come in, so accessibility is not exactly easy. The road to get to the Needles District is north of Monticello, and from the 191 it's a scenic 35 mile drive in. The places I was able to see only made me disappointed that I didn't have more time to explore. This part of the park definitely requires pre-planning. Backcountry permits go quickly and can only be reserved if you call at least two weeks ahead. Very few are given out on a first come, first serve basis at the visitor center, and they start giving them out a day prior to the backcountry day.  I know the next time I go to the Needles I will have a backcountry permit in hand. It seems to me, the only way to really experience the Needles District is to spend a night or two in the secluded backcountry. Maybe in the next few months...

Elephant Hill Trail. Needles District, Canyonlands.

Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm.

Pothole Point. Needles District, Canyonlands.

Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm, Gitzo Tripod, BH-3 Ballhead.

Cave Spring pictographs. Needles District, Canyonlands.

Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm.

Layers of sandstone on Elephant Hill. Needles District, Canyonlands.

 Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm.

Needles District, Canyonlands.

 Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer, Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 70-200mm.

Mesa Arch. Island in the Sky District, Canyonlands.
Canon 1Ds Mark II, Canon 17-40mm, Tripod.

Spirit of America: Canyonlands

To continue my 'Spirit of America' series I've included this shot of Mesa Arch at sunrise. Canyonlands National Park is the ultimate American Southwest landscape, with arches, deep canyons, red rock, and sweeping landscapes that stretch for miles. This is what I imagine when I think about the American spirit.

*Prints available upon request. See 'Prints' tab.

Southwestern Adventure: Canyonlands NP

My time at Canyonlands National Park was one of the best parts of my four day trip.  I took the backcountry road from Moab to Canyonlands going from Potash Road to Shafer Trail.  It was a bit intense at times, but my Jeep performed perfectly.  Great views at every corner.  Going up Shafer trail was by far the best part of the 27 mile off-road trail as you climb the side of the cliff to Island in the Sky of Canyonlands National Park.  

  

Overlooking the Colorado River on Potash Road/Shafer Trail.

Looking back from Shafer Trail.

I finally made it to Island of the Sky and went straight to the Ranger Station to find more information on the Class II site False Kiva.  One of the most awe inspiring, peaceful places I've ever been.  The hike was a bit nerve racking at times and at a few points I wondered if I was really on the right track (as it is not marked besides a few cairns and is not often travelled).  You come around a bend without a soul in sight to see the magnificent view overlooking the mesas and buttes far off down the canyon walls.  As if in its own bowl of beauty the cave that holds False Kiva is nearly hidden until you climb right onto it.  The last switchback to the edge of the cave is where it required the most attention.  Every step counted.  Once I came to the cave I realized how silent it was.  I was the only one making a sound.  What a great reward in the end.  I signed my name amongst those who had made the trip before me in the notebook kept in an ammo can, took my pictures and left before the sun completely set so I could find my way back to my car.  

 

The next morning I arrived at Mesa Arch extra early and was surprised to come upon three other photographers who had arrived before me.  The stars were still out and each photographer respected the other.  The sun slowly rose behind the cliffs on the horizon as floods of tourists started coming around the trail to witness the natural wonder of a glowing arch overlooking vast canyons.  It really is a photographers dream spot.  Every photographer has a shot and I couldn't leave without mine.  As much as you try to be different as a photographer you can't help noticing your tripod legs hitting the same spots as thousands before you in some spots.  Mesa Arch didn't disappoint, but the crowds made me want to scramble back to False Kiva and explore.

Tourists and photographers getting their shot of Mesa Arch at sunrise. 

 Tomorrow: Monument Valley

Location: Arches & Canyonlands

I know I just had a Moab/Arches post, but I was lucky enough to go again and just couldn't help posting some of my favorite shots.  Last time I did what I could with the time I had.  Again, I had little time, but a better plan for my photography.  It's all about planning.

The Delicate Arch is such a fun arch to photograph.  I love coming around that corner after the mile and a half hike and seeing such an iconic symbol of Utah, and a natural wonder.  I had plenty of time before sunset to explore every angle.  The wind was blowing like crazy, but the shots were flowing in.  I love this shot because it's unique, yet it is still identifiable.  I was getting pummeled with sand and wind and I wanted to show that in the photo somehow.  So I used my ND filter and slowed down the shutter a bit and waited for the bush in the foreground to dance.

There is so much texture in the rocks in Southern Utah and I wanted to capture that in this fine art photo. 

At camp I set up a long exposure to capture some star trails and really liked how they turned out.  I love setting up long exposures because you never really know how it’s going to turn out.  This exposure lasted about 24 minutes.  I knew I wanted the silhouette of the mountain, to show something grounded.  The moon had just gone behind the peak and I knew it was my chance.  The glow from the moon makes the mountain really pop, and pointing toward the North Star makes the trails expand even more into space.

This image breaks all sorts of rules in photography.  Pointing toward the sun, in harsh light, horizon in the middle of the frame, but I think it all works somehow.  I definitely needed my Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer and Reverse Graduated ND filter, to bring back the colors and the sky.  I kind of like how the sun bleeds into the image, kind of washing it out, but not completely.  There was still enough of an angle on the sun to show some of the layers in the canyon walls, and I think that helps the image a lot.  I don’t know why I liked this composition with the horizon in the middle of the frame, but it just seemed to work for me.  

And I couldn’t go to Canyonlands without getting the classic Mesa Arch shot.  It’s a bit too late in the day, and I would have loved to have caught it at sunrise, but it wasn’t in the plans.  Maybe next time.